The more you know, the tastier it becomes! Kesennuma Swordfish

Kesennuma is one of the three largest fishing grounds in the world, and a wide variety of fish are landed there throughout the year. Among these, swordfish is one of the fish that has been recorded as the number one fish landed in Japan for several consecutive years.
For the locals, it has long been a familiar and special delicacy of the sea. The "winter meka" caught between October and March is particularly known for its rich fat content, and can be enjoyed during this time of year.
Here, we would like to learn about Kesennuma swordfish from various perspectives!

Story 1: The taste of swordfish, unique to a port town

Swordfish are classified as a type of billfish in the order Perciformes and family Sabrodiidae, and are the only extant species in the family Sabrodiidae. They are a fish that grows very large among billfish. They can reach a body length of about 5 to XNUMX meters and weigh over XNUMX kilograms. They have a ferocious personality and can swim in the sea at XNUMX kilometers per hour, and before they are transformed into a dish, they are handled by many people.

It's hard work until the fish is landed!

▲Thrusting fishing

▲Longline fishing

There are two types of swordfish fishing: harpoon fishing, in which anglers stand at the front of a fishing boat and use a three-pronged harpoon to catch swordfish, and longline fishing, in which swordfish are reeled in with ropes that can sometimes reach up to 100 km in length.
Harpoon fishing is a type of fishing that resembles a "hunt," in which two people search for fish that move across the waves, one manning the boat from a lookout post, and the other firing the harpoon from atop a harpoon post.
On the other hand, longline fishing is a large-scale fishing method in which a long rope called a main line is connected to a short rope called a branch line, bait is attached, and the line is sunk in the sea to attract fish to bite. Either way, it is very hard work to land a large swordfish.

Deliciousness preserved through processing

The swordfish that are landed are decapitated and washed with a high-pressure water jet. Some boats are equipped with washing machines, and with some ingenuity on board, some swordfish are shipped while maintaining a high level of freshness.
Large swordfish are cut into different parts, and each part has its own unique flavor; the flesh is used as sashimi or steak, the harmonica is delicious simmered or grilled, and the jaw is soft and tender when stewed or grilled as teriyaki.

The beloved flavor of a port town

One swordfish can fill the stomachs of many people, so it has been a popular "sharezakana" (fish to be taken home) for fishing crew members to take home to their homes and neighborhoods when they return to port. For this reason, people living near the port town of Kesennuma have memories of "meka curry," a staple home-cooked dish made with swordfish instead of pork. Swordfish is in season all year round, and the quality of its meat does not deteriorate as much as tuna, even in summer, making it a familiar and major food ingredient for locals.

Story 2: The different tastes of swordfish depending on the part

As mentioned above, different parts of a large swordfish can have different flavors, but I would like to go into more detail about the characteristics of the swordfish's "kama," "belly block," and "back block" parts.

First, the "kama". This is a rare part of the swordfish that is located at the base of the head and body. Under the skin, there is a lot of collagen! It has a soft, plump and jiggly texture, but also a firm bite. It is suitable for cooking thoroughly, such as simmered, teriyaki, and deep-fried.

Many of the cuts sold in the store are pre-cut for easy cooking. Despite being a rare cut, it is available at a reasonable price, and is popular among locals because it is easy to cook and tastes good!

Story 3: The exquisite sweetness and umami of Daikimaru's swordfish

So how is swordfish actually caught and processed? We spoke to Akihisa Maeda, president of Daiki Suisan, which owns the large coastal longliner Daiki Maru No. 81. Daiki Suisan's ships put a special emphasis on on-board processing and handling, and strive to bring out the full flavor of the swordfish.

The original deliciousness of swordfish.

Swordfish, known as "meka" in Kesennuma, is delicious whether eaten raw, boiled, or grilled, and the bones make a good stock, so it's said to be a fish with no part to be thrown away.
Also, since it is available all year round, it is a fish that is familiar to locals. In particular, winter meka caught from October to March has fat and flavor that rivals that of bluefin tuna, but it is still not well known nationwide. If it is fresh, it can be sold for eating raw, but because it spoils quickly, the proportion of it sold raw is low, and most of it is consumed only within Kesennuma city or nearby areas, which is another reason.
President Maeda, who is not from Kesennuma, is not very familiar with swordfish and was once bothered by its "unique smell."

The swordfish that Daikimaru currently catches are free of such unpleasant odors and bitterness, allowing you to enjoy the natural deliciousness of swordfish. Apparently, restaurants in Tokyo even request Daikimaru's swordfish.
The reason for its deliciousness lies in the way the fish is processed on board the boat immediately after it is landed.

Processing on board ensures freshness!

President Maeda describes the Daiki Maru as "the first factory," and it is equipped with equipment that can process fish on board to keep them fresh.
First, the swordfish that are pulled out of the net are immediately sterilized using a method called "nanobubble washing." Then, by carefully wrapping each one in a preservation sheet, they are transported to the port while maintaining a high level of freshness. In other words, Daikimaru's swordfish are processed at an overwhelmingly earlier stage than those that are "processed at a factory after arriving at the port." As an example of how fresh the swordfish are, one retailer said, "Even the transport trucks don't smell like fish (from Daikimaru's swordfish)."
"The price of swordfish doesn't change even if we don't process it like this. But selling it with a sticker with the boat's name on it is like seeing the face of the person who caught it. So we don't cheat. We take the time and effort to process it properly on the boat, so ours is delicious," says President Maeda, recommending his company with confidence.

▲This is a fine swordfish that is delicious whether boiled or grilled.

"The best way to see the difference is to try it," so I actually tried Daikimaru's swordfish!

When eaten as sashimi, you'll be surprised at how fatty it is, yet has a light aftertaste, making it easy to eat several slices.
It's not heavy and has no fishy smell; just the umami and sweetness of the fish spreads throughout your mouth, making you feel amazed that this is the true deliciousness of swordfish.
Also, just by grilling it with salt and pepper, the meat became very tender and the fat of the swordfish melted in my mouth, giving it a delicious taste. It was truly the best swordfish taste.

▲"Mecha Shabu" which can only be eaten in Kesennuma is delicious.

President Maeda's recommendation is the swordfish shabu-shabu, or "meka shabu." The swordfish, which is delicious as sashimi, is dipped in a hot pot and enjoyed "rare." This is a luxurious menu that allows you to enjoy the different flavors of swordfish depending on how it is cooked.

In addition to this swordfish shabu-shabu, during the winter (October to March), a sale is also held at the Sea Market when the Daikimaru arrives in port. If you come to Kesennuma and see the "Daikimaru Swordfish", be sure to give it a try!

Swordfish of Daikimaru

Harvesting period

All Year

Characteristics of taste

It is rich in fat and flavor. It has no fishy smell. It is especially fatty in winter (October to March).

Where to buy

Abecho Shoten Uminoichi Store (May arrive at port depending on arrival time)

Producer

Daiki Fisheries No. 81 Daiki Maru

A restaurant where you can eat Daikimaru swordfish

Store name

Shintomi Sushi

Address

1-13-3 Higashishinjo, Kesennuma City, Miyagi Prefecture

Phone

0226-23-7475

website

https://shintomisushi.com/